Thailand Travel Information

Beware the Street Gangs of Tod Phanom

Wat Phra Tod Phanom stands on the highway to Mukdahan about 60 or 70 km south of Nakorn Phanom and about a kilometer off the Mekong River. I was on one of my Issan trips traveling by bus and train and staying at the old Nakorn Phanom Hotel.

That was before the new digs along the river were built.

It was a Sunday morning when I decided to take a bus trip to visit the most respected temple in Northeastern Thailand. The main chedi has a unique design that is quite appealing. And the temple has a very nice museum. The grounds are dotted with old mature trees that stretch out their canopies like giant umbrellas.

After enjoying the temple and its serenity I looked around the countryside. Oddly enough, the closest village was at least a kilometer away. But it had a special appeal, perched quietly on the banks of the Mekong River.

Tod Phanom was small and quiet. Being Sunday the streets were almost deserted which made for pleasant strolling. I had been there perhaps fifteen minutes when it happened.

Old instincts die hard and something started nagging at the back of my skull. It felt like someone watching me.

When I looked back I saw them. The gaggle of kids looked about eight to ten year years old. They were following me at a respectful distance, probably convinced I was a demon.

As soon as they realized I had spotted, they ran as if I had fired a burst of flame at them.

I continued on my walk and started feeling hunger pangs. I searched out what may have been the only open restaurant in town. It was a pleasant looking bamboo structure run by a woman who, upon seeing me, began to hyperventilate.

It became obvious immediately that she spoke no English and understood none of my butchered Thai. Then I spied a menu with photographs of food, so I pointed at one photo. She relaxed immediately and flashed a brilliant smile, partly as a welcome and partly in relief.

The lady served me mounds of a sumptuous meal that would have been the envy of any Bangkok eatery, for which I paid the princely sum of fifteen baht. I thanked her, got a wai and a curtsey. I returned the wai but my curtsey skills imitate those of a stumbling water buffalo. Then I set out to complete my walking tour of Tod Phanom.

Only minutes later the street gang was stalking me again. This time I turned and motioned them to come closer. That seemed to make them believe the demon was set to attack, or was maybe a cannibal in demon's clothing. They fled in all directions.

I spent another hour touring the pleasant town. And everywhere I went the kids followed, and every time I looked around they ran.

Just as I was leaving the village of Tod Phanom I turned and waved to them. They all ran and hid. But one brave little fellow did poke his head around the corner of a building and waved before disappearing again.

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