Any Way You Spell it ... it's Ghostly, Thailand Style
Thailand's closest brush with the western concept of Halloween
takes place in the Dan Sai District of Loei Province.
They sort of mix Halloween and April Fool's Day and call
it Phi Ta Khon, or "ghost festival". And it
takes place in June rather than April and October.
But lest you believe the Phi Ta Kon Festival is a midnight
display of flesh chilling terror, the festival is held
during the light of day since it is much easier to see
the fun. And possibly so all the creative mask designs
can be properly appreciated.
As many things in Thailand, Phi Ta Kon was born of legend
and mixed into Buddhism as part of a local merit-making
holiday called 'Bun Pha Ves.' The associated legend bears
a resemblance to the biblical "prodigal son"
parable.
Phi Ta Kon is mostly for young people.
In between playing tricks, they fashion costumes of
sheets or blankets, and fashion scary masks. Sticky
rice containers are decorated and converted to hats
of bizarre design.
Masks are huge and generally carved from the bases of
coconut trees. These spirit masks are an important part
of the celebrations, representing the dead who are no
longer able to attend the festivities ... or do they?
The festival goes on for three days:
Day 1 features a parade of masks, happiness,
dancing and music.
Day 2 the villagers, bearing a sacred
Buddha image, dance to the temple; pausing occasionally
to "frighten" spectators. At the temple they
shoot bamboo rockets into the sky.
A recitation the story telling of the Buddha's last
incarnation before attaining enlightenment is made.
Contests include best mask, costume and best dancer.
Each age group winner gets a plaque. The dancing contest
is the most popular event of the day.
Day 3 gathering at Wat Ponchai, the villagers hear the
message of the thirteen sermons of the Lord Buddha.
Day 4 is a return to the rice paddies and of cooking
and living and looking forward to Loi Kratong, Songkran
and next years Phi Ta Kon.